Yesterday, I posted a blog about the legend of the Heike refugees in Gokayama, Nanto City, Toyama Prefecture. Today, I will introduce Yunishigawa Onsen in Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, which also has a Heike refugee legend and the Heike Festival inspired by this legend. Don't Miss the Heike Festival at Yunishigawa Onsen: Join the Majestic Parade On June 1st (Saturday) and 2nd (Sunday), 2024, the Heike Festival (Heike Taisai) will be held at Yunishigawa Onsen. The Heike Festival is a continuing tradition at Yunishigawa Onsen, where it is said that the Heike clan fled after being defeated by the Genji clan in the Battle of Dan-no-ura (1185). The festival features the ‘Heike Emaki Parade,’ where participants dress as Heike warriors and princesses and march solemnly through the area. For those staying at Yunishigawa Onsen on June 1st, there is a special opportunity to experience dressing up as a princess or samurai and stepping back into the Heike era. However, you must apply by May 20th, so please make your reservations early. It is believed that either Taira no Tadamune (grandson of Taira no Kiyomori) or Taira no Kagemori (adopted son of Taira no Kiyomori) escaped to Yunishigawa Onsen. The Heike refugee legend of Yunishigawa is introduced at the local Heike Folk Museum and Heike no Sato (Heike Village) and is also celebrated in events like the Heike Festival. The Heike refugees used the surname "Ban," which means "people of Taira," to hide their true identity. It is said that the surname "Ban" indicates descendants of the Heike clan. Even today, people with the surname "Ban" live in the area. The owner of the long-established inn "Honke Bankyu," founded in 1666, is Teruhiko Ban. Incidentally, I have spoken with Mr. Ban on the phone. Yunishigawa Onsen has unique customs, such as not making bonfires (to avoid smoke), not keeping dogs, and not keeping chickens. These practices were meant to prevent outsiders from detecting their presence in the mountains. Thus, Yunishigawa Onsen is considered one of the areas with a highly credible Heike refugee legend. There are numerous Heike refugee legends throughout Japan. It is said that there are around 300 locations across Japan with descendants of Heike refugees, who are organized in the National Heike Association. The late 24th proprietress of "Honke Bankyu" in Yunishigawa Onsen served as the president of the National Heike Association for about 20 years and was its honorary lifetime president. In Miyoshi City, Tokushima Prefecture (Shikoku), famous for the Iya Kazurabashi Bridge (a nationally designated important tangible folk cultural property), there are Heike residences and a red flag said to be from the Heike era, which contributes to the credibility of the Heike refugee legend. There is also a Kazurabashi bridge in Yunishigawa Onsen. The legend of the Kazurabashi bridge says it was made of vines, so it could be quickly cut down if the Genji pursuers came close. Exploring How "The Tale of the Heike" May Have Influenced "Wabi-Sabi" When traveling in Japan, you will likely hear many legends of Heike refugees in various places. It might be interesting to travel while recalling the Tale of the Heike, a story from about 800 years ago that resonates deeply with many Japanese people. The famous opening lines of the Tale of the Heike, “The sound of the Gion Shoja temple bells echoes the impermanence of all things; the color of the sala flowers reveals the truth that to flourish is to fall. The proud do not endure, like a passing dream on a night in spring; the mighty fall at last, to be no more than dust before the wind.” are connected to the world of "Wabi-Sabi." Considering that the Tale of the Heike, believed to have been established in the 13th century, influenced the world of "Wabi-Sabi," which emerged in the 17th century, it provides an intriguing perspective for understanding Japanese culture.
